Lining

I decided to keep my lining in keeping with my colour palette from my research of sepia tones.

Full Jacket

After the toile fitting and altering the back pattern pieces to fit better, I needed to make a lining pattern. Because of my peplum detail, Sally decided it best to bag out the lower half of the jacket and lining the top. This meant my lining pattern was different to the one demonstrated and I needed a lot of help with this. This also means the construction of my jacket will be very different to the construction of my toiles, which I may struggle with.

Full Toile

Following all my alterations from my previous 2 half toiles I made a full toile which could then be fit to a model.

From my fitting I decided I was happy with most things. I just felt the back wasnt fitted enough, it looked slightly loose.

I pinned the jacket to the correct fit and marked on a new stitch line with felt tip pen. This can then be transferred back to my pattern and a new piece drawn up. This is the only alteration I will need to make to my pattern before continuing to make my full jacket.

Second Half Toile

Because I need to alter my collar and rever I decided to make another half toile before moving onto my full toile. This also meant I could practice sewing the collar, which I am not confident doing. Whilst the general shape of my collar and rever was slightly better, more alterations were needed. I felt the shape of the collar needed straightening out, so my pattern will be needed to altered.

My collar was also to small so I need to cut it open, position it correctly and alter my pattern accordingly before I can move onto my full toile.

First Half Toile

From my pattern i was able to make up a quick half toile, to get an understanding of the construction of my jacket and how it looks on. I could gauge the length, if my style lines were in the correct place, the fit of the jacket and if the collar and rever fit correctly.

From my half toile I found that the collar and rever was quite difficult to make because its such a small distance between the two. I need to make my rever bigger in order for it to be easier to construct.

Second Manufacturing Lesson

From pinning the paper pattern on the stand I was able to mark where I wanted the collar and rever to sit. From this information I could draw a pattern. I found this quite difficult at first; there are lots of little steps and the pattern can end up looking quite confusing with lot of lines. I got there in the end though, and I think i would find it much easier in the future to draw a pattern for a collar and rever.

First Manufacturing Lesson

With my final design and fabric decided upon, I was ready to start pattern cutting!

First step was to trace out the basic block, pin the darts shut and put it on the stand to get an idea of the silhouette. While the paper was on the stand it was then possible to mark on style lines such as where i wanted my peplum and where i wanted the collar and rever to sit. The pattern was then taken off the stand so I could work on it. I drew up where i wanted my peplum and moved my darts to the correct position.